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Thursday May 12, 2011 13:55 by anarcho2Libya
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As you can guess from the title I'm writing to you from Benghazi "Free Libya". I left Bristol about 20 days ago and flew to Cairo, ominously on a one way ticket. My plan was simple to join the Libyan Peoples Revolution and help what ever way I could (they don't like the words rebel or rebellion they call themselves 'revolutionaries') Getting there was the easy bit , I got an over night bus from Cairo to Saluum in the far West ($10) and a taxi the last 12 km to the border post. That was where it started to get real , there are about 250+ people living in the border complex carpark stuck in between Libya and Egypt all under plastic tents and tarps they are all migrant workers who left Libya when the fighting started none of them have money to go home or visas to enter Egypt. The guys I talked to were Ethiopian Christians who cant or wont go back to Ethiopia because of religious persecution they all like Libya and its people and want to go back there to live and work, apparently the money is quite good. Everyone at the border area were quite friendly, tents have been handed out,showers and toilets work (but they would remind you of ones at a squat party) They jack free electricity off of lamp posts. The IOM (International Organisation of Migrants) hands food three times a day, the Red Cross register everyone and carry out health care clinics .But when I passed through some of the people had been there for two months with out a doubt they are still there right now. Couldn’t hardly keep from nervous laughter as I approached the Libyan side of the border, what exactly was I going to tell them? Beyond a passport I had nothing,no contacts in Libya, no one to meet me, no letter of introduction, no contract of employment. I decided at all costs not to lie because lies have a way of tripping you up later on . So I said I was a humanitarian volunteer hoping to imply that I was some sort of aid worker which I suppose I am. The production of an Irish passport seemed to calm them. They weren’t suspicious or hostile just mystified. They stamped my passport and wished me luck! So this is it, up till now it was all just theory, where to go? how to get in? Buying maps, packing bags, the torture of the two weeks notice I had to give at work. But I had done it, I got a lift to the next city Tobruk 180km away for $20. Sat in the front seat laughing , laughing at the mission ahead, laughing at the self doubt of the last three weeks, just happy to be doing it not thinking it. I texted my main man in Bristol to keep him informed of what i was doing, before I left I bought two identical maps leaving one with him just so I would have some one in Bristol keeping an eye on me . Within 40km of the border vodafone reception gave up, that took the smile off my face. I got dropped off at a posh hotel on the edge of Tobruk, it was going to get dark soon so I booked in ($80), big hotels are good for information , money exchange, fixers and interpretors .The next morning I changed Dollars to Dinar and got a taxi to Benghazi. Please note that there is no way to withdraw cash in this country no banks open, no cash machines working, Western Union has suspended all operations no one will accept credit or debit cards, if you don't have it in your pocket when you cross the border, your screwed. I got to Benghazi after a 6 hour journey in a taxi, it cost me $105 which is about 3 times that of a bus but it went direct, saving me 10 hours travel time and it dropped me right to a hotel, bear in mind I have a 24 kilo rucksack (half of it is tools). He drops me at another posh hotel (my last) . This hotel is crawling with corporate media, satellite dishes on the lawn, journo only internet, Government press conference every two days etc.,I book in ($80) drop my bags and head into town to have a look around (and find a cheaper place to stay).... (Image: Benghazi Media Centre) Original Article |
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Comments (7 of 7)
Jump To Comment: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7I would like to know more about the composition of the opposition to Gadaffy. I was initially sympathetic to the uprising which seemed to be a follow on from events in Egypt etc., but increasingly there were signs that the leadership at least was made up of ex regime figures, CIA assets etc. Most of the workers were lined up at the border to get out.
What is the social composition of those doing the fighting, and those around the TNC? Apart from calls for freedom, which can be twisted any way you like, does anyone there have a definite political programme?
I never bought the line about humanitarian intervention, and now there is a bloody stalemate while the western powers compete for a share of the oil once the regime is ousted or the country divided up. Could it be that, tragically, genuine fighters for freedom etc, end up doing the work of imperialism?
Maybe once you get away from the international media you will get some insight not otherwise available. Good luck with that.
What's your position on the NATO bombing? Please don't tell me it's to protect the liberty of the Libyan people!
Don't you think you may be getting into a nasty squabble between two ethnic/patron-client factions rather than a genuine social revolution?
Black people in Libya have been viciously persecuted by both sides. Isn't this a big problem, especially since Gaddafi is so popular in much of Africa?
Why are the self-appointed rebel leaders so shady? What's their agenda? Wouldn't they be best described as ambitious opportunists?
Do the rebels want to prevent western corporations getting their hands on the huge untapped oil deposits of eastern Libya, or not?
If NATO are going to bankroll and 'support' the rebels with military intervention, does this not compromise those who are genuine?
It seems strange that before even a government was put into place, the rebel leaders created a bank. Does this sound like revolution?
I'm not attacking you, just asking questions. I admire your spontaneity and balls (the use of an Irish passport is cool). But I think you may be bitterly disappointed. I also reckon that the real thing is in Egypt and you'd be better off (in all ways) giving us inside reports on how the revolution there is proceeding.
Look after yourself.
one question you could ask is would the rebel leadership grant full trade union rights to the migrant workers who seem to do most of the work?
One of the leaders of the TNC is in America looking for money and arms and made the following remarks;
Speaking Thursday at the Brookings Institute alongside Kenneth Pollack, the former Central Intelligence Agency Middle East analyst, Jibril asserted that “there is a lot at stake for the US and the free world” in Libya. He said that a new regime installed through the US-backed intervention “could serve as a model” for “other Arab revolutions, such as Egypt and Tunisia” as well for Africa.
This is from an article on todays www.wsws.org which has extensive coverage of the war against Libya and opposed the bombing all along
In response to the post from labour, I think there is no chance these people will want independent organisation of workers. However, we can see that trade unions are often willing to play ball with the regime (recent examples in Tunisia, Egypt), or to act as a brake on the workers (Greek unions one day strikes to let off steam or our own dear TUC)
Mike first:
"Regime figures"
More than likley they are present. One in particular is Mustafa Abdel Jalil the former justice minister, he is widely respected by the people ive met because of the work he did disrupting Gadaffi when he could, by blocking prosecutions, getting people bail,releasing people etc
You also have to note there was no opposition in this country for the last 42 years,
"CIA Assets"
I dont know please send me details and ill do my best to check. try to check are they opposition in exile who are justified in "suddenly" reappearing
"Social Composition of rebels"
The rebels ive met and ones i work with are a mixed bunch some poor /working class and middle and upper middle class
But when i was given a lift to a base by a well dressed Consultant Engineer in his $30,000 jeep i started to form an opinion about him as a "part time rebel" ,He then informed me that he spent 7 years in prison when he was younger for being a dissident.
There are lots of black people involved from cooks to captains and they dont seem to self segregatee
"Social Composition of TNC"
I dont know but will try to get a feel for what the locals think
"Definite political programme"
Nothing obvious as of yet, but from the feeling i get not much is organised over here so far. Talked to a Dutch freelance journo who speaks Arabic, she listened in on a few workshop /meetings they were having in the "govt" hotel and they were discussing what a constitution was should go in it (i think its early days)
"Unions for Workers"
Dont know yet will be having meeting this week with Engineering students and graduates from Garyounis Uni. who are forming a national Eng. Union.
Ive seen evidence of "Health, Safety and Environment Eng. Society" will catch up with them when there office is open next.
oBaoill asked:
"My position on Nato"
No time for them at all i see them as a military arm on the Europe economy, i was gutted when thy got involved i really hoped the rebels would do it for themselves
"Squabble between two ethnic groups rather than genuine social revolution"
From what ive seen i really dont think its between ethnic groups. look at a map, the majority of the population live in built up areas on the coast i would theorise it would be hard to maintain tribal lines in cities.
The guys at the small base i sometimes help out on are all from the one area/neighbours and guys they went to school with this is just a practical they grew up together and trust each other issue.
The only ethnic thing i have come across is that they wont let non Libyans work on any army bases (makes sense)
The locals refuse to accept any mention of a civil war, I started to talk to them about how Ireland is partitioned and the civil war there in 1921, the wouldnt even let me finish, they just want Qaddafi out ,Tripoli is their capital, They dont want to hear about east against west,Benghazi against Tripoli etc.
the posters and graffiti is are consistent "Libya one tribe, Tripoli our Capital" "Libya one blood Tripoli our heart" etc.
"Social Revolution"
you will have to define what you mean by this , i dont for a moment think its an anarchist revolution, (no sign of the SWP yet either) but i do believe its started by the people, ive seen mobile phone footage of protesters against troops, talked to people who have seen unarmed protesters shot dead in front of them.
its people against the regime but this country is fully Islamic and a male led patriarchy. You also have to remember they have been isolated for a long long time. The average person has not been able to travel outside the country since the 90s im told
"Black people viciously persecuted"
Dont know what happened before i got here but there lots of black faces around town (Benghazi) running shops stalls taxis etc. there is also lots of non libyan blacks working hear too, tailors in the market in particular
The black workers i met a the border on the way in were there for a few reasons , a healthy dose of fear of war! no one was paying wages or giving work so they want to get into Egypt (but were not let). the reason they stay in lots of cases is there is food, shelter ,health care etc and they want to be ready to go straight back to work in Libya
I didnt hear any evidence that they were persecuted
"Qaddafi popular in Africa"
Look at who he is popular with (Mugabe etc)And what "help" has he given neighbouring countries like Mali, Niger,Algeria funding and training their rebel groups last time i checked. Not saying he hasn't done some good but hed have to do a lot to balance the karma books.
Check out the reception the African delegation got when the came to Benghazi the feeling im told was that some of the "peace makers" were as bad as Gaddafi in their own countries..
"Self appointed leaders"
to be blunt, how else are they going to get started? If i was a local id have stuck my head up wouldn't you?
There is no opposition party and after 42 years hes bent the peoples back something awful,
But they cant form a government because they only have half the country available to them
I doubt any one in this country has ever voted in their life
"Shady"
Dont know on this one please send some examples,
One possible reason for secrecy could be that everyone has family in Tripoli and the West. A lot of people ispeak to are armed, fighting, willing to die (i believe them) but wont give their names for that reason
"Ambitious Opportunists"
Bound to happen but i have met more than one leader/officer who has an attempt on their life (most of the offices i been to at army admin HQ have beds in for that reason .They are all scared for their families.
I reckon you see them come out the woodwork when the fighting stops though!
"Prevent western oil companies"
I sure hope they do but right now most of the essential skilled workers have legged it, they export crude oil and import refined petrol which must be a loss transaction? their main oil works is around al Brega so therefore off limits
This week they ran out of petrol for 24 hours but dont feel bad for them it only costs 6 Dinar to fill your tank ,thats about 3 quid
"First thing a bank"
It had to be done .When the war started the banking system collapsed . Salaries were not being paid people were really hard up ,even if you had money you couldnt get to it. The banks are open now but then lines to get in are endless my mate explained
the system is now analogue, all transaction are done on paper, You can only go to your "home" branch (the branch where you opened your account) fill out a slip get money if you/they have, but only one transaction at atime because they have to do their books every day, make them balance then balance your account. (God knows what happens if your home branch is Tripoli)
Cash machines dont work nor does any credit card facility All the banks head offices are in Tripoli and they pulled the plug on their intranet months ago
"Nato bank roll"
Of course they accepted nato help, they were days from death,Gaddafis revenge was imminent Hes a very vengeful man by all accounts. (Have you heard about Abu Salim Prison massacre? in 1996 1270 inmates were killed by state security for protesting about conditions. Ive met a young guy whos father was one of the ones killed but the officials never admitted it and he and the family kept sending him clothes, letters, food and money for 15 years)
I ask people what do you think Nato wants in return for its efforts ,thousands of flights, how many cruise missiles at $110,000 each?
they all say oil, they want to pay off the debt in cash not contracts, i hope they get the chance
People (soldiers and civilians) say with all seriousness that they will not accept any foreign troops on their soil and will fight them if the come!
"Better off in Egypt"
Please give me more info as to why you think this and what are the differences between Libya and Egypt
When i return to Bristol i will be traveling through
A Dutch radio journo (fluent Arabic lives in Cairo) said at the start of Tahir square demo they chanted for Mubarak to leave only and the army was violent and unsympathetic
whent heir chants changed to that of the head of the army things changed, the head (whos name i forget right now) was always loyal, i doubt you get to be head of the army any other way. he changed sides and i guess saved his neck
No honour among thieves
"Bitterly disappointed"
Dont worry chief I'm a devout cynic (i draw the line at pessimism)
I have high hopes but not so high expectations. What can we expect after 42 years of of isolation and no choice?
I dont think for a miute that im being attacked, its nice to hear some grown up chatter on the comments
keep em coming
Arthur (A hard to find comment)
"CIA up to its usual"
I agree with some of what you say, but please tell me how its different from other revolts
"Universal Health care"
In so far as i can see came on the backs of Indain, Pakistani and Filipino labour and medics who im told were not allowed to flee hospitals in Triploi when the war started, Please check on this
"Education"
Education for all was possible in no small part due to the army of migrant labour that did all the unskilled work round here, their wages were low and rights few. There was reports off them being refused exit at the Tunisian border and being sent back to Tripoli
"Housing"
Locals tell me one of the original demos in early Feb one of the issues was housing and the spiraling cost of it
Bear in mind people here dont seem to buy houses till they get married so they say they cant marry till they buy a house
ive been to one of the government housing sites
holy crap literally mile long building sites of 6 story 20 apartment blocks in huge estates , on the desert edge of north Benghazi
im going to do a small piece on it when i get the chance.
Im told there is more on the southern road into town
As far as being played. that is always the danger but remember im 33 years of age, and question every thing i hear and see
Im not naive, but also not arrogant enough to think i cant be fooled
Heres my worst case scenario:
This was a genuine peoples revolt, unarmed turning to armed, perhaps then hijacked by corrupt TNC
and then a shamelessly opportunist Nato swinging in to expand markets and kill Gaddafi (just for fun)
Topped off with some murky Cia interference
I guess im willing to separate all of this into two parts topple a dictator then the political/economic aftermath
i wont be around for the second part i wish them luck,
Ive spent 3 weeks here now ,Libyans are a tough mob they have been waiting for this a long time and are nobodies fool
it would be hard to pull the wool over their eyes
What do ye think i should do....?
There is information about Khalifa Hifter, ex leadung military figure of the Gaddafy regime who was prominent in the CHad campaign. He went to America and spent the last 20 years living close to the CIA HQ
www.wsws.org has an aticle on this March 30th
http://www.wsws.org/articles/2011/mar2011/hift-m30.shtml
Thanks for detailed response A2L.
Also interesting points from Mike and Arthur.
Fact is that when it comes to The Power they're all in it for themselves. Socialised psychopaths the lot of em.
What's to choose between Ceausescu and Reagan or Nixon?
Do? Why not learn Arabic?